I love exploring new cuisines. And although Springfield has an ever-increasing number of ethnic restaurants, African cuisine has been a rarity. But with Travelers Kitchen's West African-inspired menu, that's no longer true.
Travelers is in the former La Bamba space on MacArthur Boulevard. When it formally opened last September, it slowly transitioned from a Mexican restaurant into an African one. I'd been intending for quite some time to eat there and finally got around to it. So, with an intrepid friend who didn't hesitate or even ask what was on the menu, we decided to give it a shot.
The interior is utilitarian and bright. Chairs are spiffed up with white covers and there are colorful tablecloths. Diners order from the counter and are then served at the tables.
Ordering was a process, as we were advised that some dishes could take up to 20 minutes to prepare while others would come out much faster. There was a slight language barrier, but the combination of pictures of various dishes on the wall and the help of a frequent diner saw us through.
When we arrived there was only one employee, but the owner came in a little later and made sure to check in on us, which my guest and I appreciated.
Most dishes at Travelers come with rice or plantains, have nearly equal helpings of protein and vegetables and generally come with some sort of sauce. Slow braises and live-fire cooking dominate the menu. Multilayered spices amp up the flavor but are not too hot; we found nutmeg, ginger, cumin and chilies to be the mainstays.
For those who want to go all in, goat is available as well as fufu. Fufu is pounded yam, semolina and assorted other items and approximates mashed potatoes, but with a mouth feel mimicking wallpaper paste. Eaten alone, I'm not a fan, but Travelers' version comes with okra soup or goat pepper soup (slow-cooked goat with carrots and potatoes). There's also a lunch special consisting of chicken yassa (chicken cooked in a sauce of onions and veggies with African spices, served with rice), chicken shawarma wrap or benachin chicken (chicken cooked in a tomato sauce with veggies, served with rice).
We decided to start with a samosa and an eggroll. A samosa is a triangular piece of pastry wrapped around a savory filling that's fried. In our case, it was ground meat and vegetables seasoned with what I believed to be garam masala and ginger. It was delicious. So, too, was the egg roll, even if it was somewhat incongruous to see it on the menu. It came with a sweet dipping sauce that enhanced rather than overpowered the dish.
My guest and I decided to split two dishes between us. We started with the domoda – an amazing soup from Gambia made from peanut butter, beef and blended vegetables that is served over rice. My sense is that the base is made from either pumpkin or sweet potatoes. Still, it's not a sweet dish at all and appears to be made with plenty of tomatoes, onions, garlic and peppers. The beef cubes were fall-apart tender, and the whole dish was simply packed with great flavors. We both agreed that the dish satisfied our taste buds and comforted our food cravings.
Our second dish was beef oxtails served with rice, beans and steamed cabbage. This was another winner. I wasn't too excited about the prospect of steamed cabbage. Boy, was I wrong. Yes, it was steamed, but it appeared to have then been sautéed with onions, sweet potatoes and some killer spices. The oxtails came with a large serving of dark brown rice that paired well with both the oxtails and the cabbage.
The oxtails themselves had obviously been simmered with love. They were coated with a delicious, slightly sticky sauce that again appeared to have been made from roasted peppers, tomatoes and onions. It was very similar to eating rib tips – it's messy and takes some effort, but the payoff is well worth it.
One regret is that my guest and I both reflexively went with water. Later that day, as I sat down to type up my notes, I noticed a drink option called wonjo on Travelers' menu. Thanks to the internet, I now know that wonjo is a Gambian drink made from dried hibiscus leaves, citrus of some sort, juice or sugar and peppermint leaves. It sounds refreshing, and I wish I had given it a try.
My guest and I both commented that we would come back. And that's the praise that's most meaningful to a restaurant. With such unique cuisines, not all dishes will please every palate. But we applaud Travelers Kitchen for its boldness and great flavors. Well done.
Address: 1731 S. MacArthur Blvd., Springfield
Phone: 217-670-1654
Website: facebook.com/TravelersKitchen217
Kitchen hours: Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday 12-9 p.m.
